xTool M1 Ultra: 8 Real-World Questions I Wish I'd Asked Before Buying

I've been working with desktop laser systems since 2020, and I've been using the xTool M1 Ultra for about 18 months now. If I remember correctly, I was one of the early adopters in my local makerspace network here in Düsseldorf.

But I wasn't smart about it. I jumped in, skimmed the marketing, and made some classic mistakes. One reorder—$320 worth of ruined acrylic blanks—taught me what I should have known before hitting 'buy.' This FAQ covers the questions I got wrong, so you don't have to repeat my errors.

1. What laser type does the xTool M1 Ultra use? Is it a CO2 laser?

The short answer is no, it's not a CO2 laser. The xTool M1 Ultra uses a blue diode laser module—specifically, a 20W or 40W module depending on which version you buy.

Here's why this matters:

• CO2 lasers (like the ones from Epilog or Trotec) use a gas tube to generate a 10.6µm wavelength beam. They're powerful, but they're also large, require water cooling, and cost multiple thousands of euros.
• Diode lasers (like the M1 Ultra's) use LED-style diodes. They're smaller, cheaper, and more energy-efficient. But they operate at a different wavelength (around 445nm for blue), which means they interact with materials differently.

The practical difference? A CO2 laser can cut clear acrylic beautifully. A diode laser struggles with it unless you use specific additives. I found this out the hard way when I tried to cut 3mm clear acrylic for a client order—the beam just passed through. That $320 reorder I mentioned? That was the same project, but with colored acrylic that absorbs the 445nm wavelength better.

According to industry sources, blue diode lasers are excellent for wood, leather, dark acrylic, and some metals (for engraving only). But they won't cut clear or translucent materials effectively. The xTool website provides a compatibility matrix, but I didn't read it carefully enough.

2. What is the xTool M1 Ultra honeycomb bed for? Do I really need it?

The honeycomb bed is a flat, grid-like surface that sits inside the machine. It's made of thin metal walls forming hexagonal cells—like a beehive, hence the name.

Its job is to allow laser exhaust and debris to fall through, rather than building up underneath the material. This prevents two problems:

1. Flash fires from accumulated debris igniting.
2. Scorch marks on the back of your material caused by reflected heat.

I used the stock blade-like cutting grid for my first three months. It worked fine for thicker materials like 6mm plywood. But when I switched to thinner materials—like 1.5mm leather patches for a batch of keychains—I got scorch marks on every single piece. The honeycomb bed solved that overnight.

Should you buy one? If you're cutting any thin material (< 3mm), yes. If you're mostly engraving or cutting thick plywood, you can probably skip it. But I'd recommend it. It's a small cost compared to the hassle of cleaning burnt residue off 50 finished parts. Prices for the official xTool honeycomb bed are around $40–60 USD as of late 2024—check their site for current pricing.

3. Is the xTool M1 Ultra worth it for small business use?

Depends on what you're making. For prototyping, low-volume production, and custom one-offs, it's fantastic. I've used it to make everything from custom nameplates to small-batch leather goods.

But if you're planning to run 500 identical pieces per week, you'll hit its limits fast. The working area is roughly 400×400mm—smaller than many laser cutters. And the diode module isn't as fast as a CO2 tube for deep cuts.

I remember a project in September 2022 where I needed 120 wooden coasters for a brewery launch. The M1 Ultra handled it, but it took three full days of near-continuous operation. That's fine for a side hustle, not great for a production line.

My honest advice: Treat it as a prototyping and small-batch tool. If your volume grows, invest in a larger CO2 system. But as a starting point for $1,500–$2,000, it's hard to beat.

4. Can I cut aluminum with a plasma cutter?

This question comes up a lot when people research laser cutters. The short answer: yes, but not with the xTool M1 Ultra.

A plasma cutter uses an electrical arc and compressed gas to cut conductive metals. It's a completely different technology from laser engraving. Plasma cutters are typically handheld or CNC-mounted systems used for cutting steel, aluminum, and stainless steel sheets.

The xTool M1 Ultra can engrave aluminum (by marking the anodized coating), but it cannot cut it. The blue diode laser doesn't have the power or wavelength to melt through ⅛-inch aluminum. If you need to cut aluminum, you need either a plasma cutter or a fiber laser—both of which cost significantly more and require different safety setups.

I fell into this trap early. A customer asked if I could cut thin aluminum nameplates. I thought, 'It's a laser, right? How hard can it be?' The answer: very hard. The laser just reflected off the surface. We ended up outsourcing to a local metal fabrication shop here in Düsseldorf. The lesson: know your machine's limits before promising anything.

5. Where can I buy a laser cutter in Australia?

If you're reading this from Australia, you're probably looking for reliable suppliers. The xTool brand has official distribution through their website, but shipping to Australia can be expensive.

Here are your options:

• Official xTool website – Ships globally, but you'll pay for freight. Expect 2–4 week delivery times for most orders.
• Amazon Australia – Often has xTool products listed, sometimes with faster shipping via Prime.
• Local distributors – Companies like Coherent or Laser Industries sell industrial laser systems, but they're overkill for the M1 Ultra's class. For smaller machines, check Jaycar Electronics or Altronics—they sometimes carry desktop lasers.
• Specialty hobby stores – Some craft and electronics stores in major cities (Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane) stock entry-level laser engravers.

My advice: Compare prices with shipping. The official store might be cheapest, but if a local distributor has stock, the convenience of faster delivery might justify a small premium. I once paid $80 extra for expedited shipping to get a replacement diode in time for a weekend event—it saved me a $1,500 refund because I could actually fulfill the order.

6. Can the xTool M1 Ultra cut metal?

No, it cannot cut metal. This is a common misconception. The xTool M1 Ultra can engrave metal, but only certain types:

• Anodized aluminum – The laser removes the surface coating, creating a mark. It's not engraving the metal itself, just the colored layer.
• Coated stainless steel – Similarly, it can mark the coating.
• Brass and copper – With specific spray coatings or fiber diode modules, you can mark these, but it's not a direct cut.

The cutting limitation comes down to power. A 40W blue diode laser has a power density that's too low to melt through 1mm steel or aluminum. For comparisons, an industrial CO2 laser might use 60–150W for thin metal cutting, and fiber lasers start at 100W for practical metal work.

I learned this when a friend asked me to cut a small aluminum nameplate. 'It's just a laser, right?' I said. Two hours later, all I had was a slightly warm piece of metal with a faint scratch. Embarrassing.

7. How does the xTool M1 Ultra compare to a CO2 laser?

This is the question I wish I'd asked before buying. Here's the honest comparison:

The CO2 laser is objectively more versatile. But for 80% of what a small business or hobbyist needs, the M1 Ultra is sufficient. I'd say: if your budget is under $3,000 and you don't need to cut clear acrylic, the M1 Ultra is a great choice. If you need that extra capability, save up for a CO2 system. But don't skimp—a cheap CO2 laser can be a safety risk. I've seen what happens when a poorly-maintained CO2 tube fails. Not pretty.

8. Do I need to buy the xTool M1 Ultra rotary attachment?

The rotary attachment is a specialized tool for engraving cylindrical objects—like cups, bottles, pens, or rolling pins. It rotates the object in sync with the laser head movements.

Do you need it? Only if you plan to engrave cylindrical items more than a few times a year. For occasional use, you can rig up a manual rotation setup (I've seen people use skate bearings and a PVC tube). But for anything regular, the official attachment is worth it.

I bought mine after a third failed attempt at engraving a tumbler manually. The result was a crooked, misaligned mess on a $40 YETI cup. The attachment cost about $100 if I remember correctly. Since then, I've engraved maybe 60 cups—each profit was $15-20. The math was obvious.

Check the official xTool store for current pricing. But at that cost, it's a no-brainer if you're planning to sell personalized drinkware.

So that's it. The questions I wish someone had answered for me, plus the mistakes they'd have saved me from. If you have other questions, drop them in the comments—I probably have a story about it.